Salameander.com

Buses with horns blaring. Hot, putrid air wafting from drains as you walk over the gratings. Streets lined with peddlers all vying for your pocket with their mind-boggling arrays of fake branded watches, bags and clothing. Beggars. Bright lights and tacky chinese dance music. People skulking in dark corners, watching other people. The scent of melting butter, peanuts and sugar.

My father-in-law grew up in this part of town, and he took us to this back lane which serves up the meanest hokkien noodles I've come across--heartily coated and fried in lard with its characteristic brown-black sauce. Meanwhile rats skittered at our feet with their own families peeking out of nearby drains. Then father-in-law haggles down the price of a fake TAG from RM145 to RM100, and gets them to shorten the metal strap for no extra charge.

Charming, I tell you. I loved every minute of it.